Vishalla: A Museum and Restaurant

(Housecalls Magazine, December 2005)

Imagine a place that combines relaxation with rural charm and home-cooked food, yet is located within the confines of a city. Sound impossible? Not so in Ahmedabad, where designer Surendra Patel has inspired a new generation of ‘feel good’ restaurants with his brainchild Vishalla Restaurant. The restaurant, located on the Ahmedabad-Baroda highway, has become a must-visit for visitors to Ahmedabad not only on account of its lip-smacking (and healthful!) rendition of traditional Gujarati food served in a village-like setting, but also for its unique Utensil Museum. The museum, which houses over 4000 pieces of traditional Indian houseware, is the only one of its kind in the world and is worth a visit. Providing something for all, Vishaala Restaurant offers an exciting experience and a sumptuous feast, not only for the stomach.

The idea for Vishalla restaurant, says Surendra, came from observing the ever-growing presence of stress and tension in urban dwellers’ lives. “Over the years, I observed that city folk always were always seeking places go to after work in the evenings – maybe to a garden, a restaurant, a temple, or a pub – anywhere, just to relax. Yet even many of these places afforded little mental peace. I thought to myself, why not create a restaurant with an ambience of relaxation and a natural setting, for a tension-free night out, away from the clamor and clang of the city?” Thus, in 1978, he began Vishalla Restaurant with the intention of creating a place of village-like serenity, openness and close connection to nature, as a kind of ‘retreat’ for urban folk. “The restaurant aims to connect urban dwellers to nature in a meaningful way,” says Surendra. “We utilize natural elements as far as possible, and minimize use of artificial material like plastic and steel. The restaurant is open air. We even use a natural air freshener,” he says with a grin, referring to the use of loban, a tree extract that is used in villages to ward off insects and purify the air.

Vishalla -- which means vast in Hindi – stands true to its name; there are no physical barriers in the form of doors or walls. This architectural peculiarity accentuates the feeling of vastness and openness, Surendra says, “and signifies the freedom of the mind”. The entire complex is situated out-of-doors, yet the artful use of bamboo, dirt lanes and the natural cover of dense foliage leaves one with the sense that is one is in a space in between the indoors and outdoors. A diya-lit entrance way beckons one to the interiors; traditionally-clad Gujarati men, replete with colorful dhotis and turbans, offer hearty greetings and provide a brief introduction on the gastronomic delights to come. The ambience created by the bamboo, low-lighting and greenery set an ambience that is at once peaceful and ethereal.

The Museum is housed in a partially-covered bamboo construction; its natural elements-inspired décor makes it seem as though it has just sprung up from the earth. A Shivaji temple surrounded by a pool of water sits majestically at its interior, heightening the aura of antiquity that envelops the place. The utensils, astonishing in their number and variety, line the four walls of the museum. The collection began as a hobby of Surendra’s; it was a striking incident that sparked off the idea for the creation of a museum. Soon after Vishalla was opened, Surendra went to a village in Rajasthan to collect a few ornamental vessels. There, he found the antique seller melting most of his collection for sale of the metal. Further travels showed the same thing happening in other parts of the country, and he was saddened that artifacts of such cultural and aesthetic value were being lost purely for monetary reasons. His designer-instincts overcame him, and he decided that he would begin a museum for traditional houseware from across the nation. In this way, he believed that he could not only showcase the fine craftsmanship of the utensils, but also lay the foundation for their preservation and appreciation for generations to come.

The collection - containing pieces as diverse as jewelry cases, dowry boxes, cauldrons, ancient idli makers, betel-nut crackers, treasures of maharajahs and camel saddles - is also diverse in terms of its geographical representation and antiquity. For one who might think that pieces from Gujarat might dominate the collection, it is not so; nearly 60% are from southern regions of India. The utensils range from 75 years to 1000 years in antiquity with the bulk being 150-200 years old. The oldest piece in the collection, a large copper pot, has been shown to be over 1000 years old. The well-informed guide, Mr. D. B. Patel, explains that Brahmi inscriptions – an Indian language that died not less than 1100 years ago – engraved in the interiors of the pot, are testament to its antiquity.

Not only are the pieces qualitatively diverse, Mr. Patel informs me, each is also exceptional in its own way. By way of explanation, he picks up what looks like an aging bell, and demonstrates that it is actually a ‘picnic-cup’ of yesteryears: a cup that contains 12 other cups of varying sizes, perfect for a family outing. Upon learning more about the pieces, one realizes that they are also unique repositories of information about lives of our ancestors. The guide points to a delicately carved brass opium-inhaler whose one end has the face of a snake, while the opposite end is engraved the head of a sheep. “The message is that the opium is equivalent to snake poison. Yet if one does not drink the opium,” he smiles, “one’s head becomes as hard as that of a sheep’s.”

After feasting on the cultural richness, it is time to experience some culinary delights. I am seated cross-legged in front of a low rising table, “which is the proper way according to Ayurveda, as this position keeps the stomach tension-free,” says Surendra. Accentuating the rustic feel, waiters in colorful garb spread leaf-plates and leaf-bowls on the table. I learn that even the food is designed to be calming for the body, being prepared with reduced ghee, oil, chili and salt. “We serve traditional Gujarati food, but as far as possible, we avoid deep-fried foods, preferring our items to be roasted or baked. We make sure to include lots of greens as well as sprouted salads. As far as possible, we also use organic ingredients,” Surendra informs me.

True to his words, a large assortment of vegetables, sprouts, condiments, achaar and chutney arrive as starters. The shaaks (vegetable dishes), made of vegetables often to be found in Gujarati homes – aaloo, channa, parval - arrive next, along with the Gujarati staple of kadhi. Those unfamiliar with Gujarati cooking might be surprised at the light sweetness of each dish; addition of gor (unrefined sugar) is typical of Gujarati cooking. Waiters quickly bring different kinds of roti - roasted thepla, rotlo and bhakra, and urge the abstemious to eat more. The snack dish of sandwich dhokro, a steamed bread-like item layered with chutney, arrives next. For the brave-hearted await the tasty Gujarati sweets of jalebi and dudhi halwa (milk halwa). And to top it all off, there remains the trademark chaas – a thin buttermilk that is lightly salted, served in a terracotta cup.

For those who enjoy a pleasant evening stroll after a satiating meal, the cultural activities spread across the ground are entertaining detours before heading home. Music performances, puppet shows and an art shop offer an interesting look at different facets of Gujarati culture. Those wary of raucous urban tunes dampening the bucolic charm need not worry; only bhajans or folk songs are used, with film songs – and speakers and microphones -- being steadfastly avoided.

While walking out and marveling at the meticulous planning and thinking involved in Vishalla’s setup, I learn that even the exit has been carefully planned. “According to Ayurveda, one should walk 100 steps after a meal. Whether you are a governor or an ordinary person, the exit is designed such that everyone has to walk at least 100 steps to reach it!” Surendra tells me with a twinkle in his eye. If you’re looking to come to Vishalla for a rejuvenating experience in food, nature and culture, it’s definitely bang for the buck. But most of all, it’s worth coming to Vishalla for food for the soul.