An Indian in Shanghai

The Hindu, April 10th 2005

Hesistant metropolis or a strange land of bicycle avalanches? SMITA JAIN discovers a brand new China.

AP

For peace of mind -- legendary Chinese figures representing (from left) prosperity, happiness, and career achievement.

I NEVER expected to live in China, so when I found myself heading to Shanghai last summer to work at a procurement firm, I wasn't sure what to expect. I'd met few who'd been to the country, and from second and third-hand reports I'd heard, I imagined a strange land of bicycle-avalanches and where vegetarians ate grass. From what I'd read about China's tumultuous history, I expected Shanghai to be a hesitant metropolis inching its way toward capitalist glory, somewhere on the brink between the Past and Present, and encumbered by a rebellious populace.

My arrival at the gigantic, glass-panelled, world-class Pudong Airport and my subsequent ride to the city on the Maglev (the fastest train in the world), were enough to shatter many of my misperceptions. Gigantic billboards flashed latest London-Paris fashions, while others glorified the latest Chinese icons. As I soaked in the innumerable skyscrapers, malls and modern cityscape, I realised that this was in fact a Brand New China that was unapologetically racing forward on the global superhighway.

The confluence of concrete with the teeming populace and street-vendors gave Shanghai a decidedly NYC-meets-Mumbai feel, but with a major difference: the absence of English. I'd visited parts of the world where English is not the vernacular, but the psychological impact of walking through streets with signs, street names, and general conversation solely in Mandarin, was unparalleled.

Curiosity about India

At work, I received an excited welcome. Most of my colleagues had never met any Indians before, and they were curious to learn about Indian culture. Some had seen Bollywood films during their childhood, and were enamoured by the joyful songs and dances. During lunch break on my first day, they crowded around me as I opened up my spartan lunch, and the questions came pouring out: Why was I vegetarian? Would I be able to bear children? What are Indian languages like? Why doesn't India institute a one-child policy like China? Could India "catch up" with China?

As I waded through the questions, peering at the bright-eyed, curious faces around me, it struck me that for the first time, I was in a country nearly-untouched by Indian culture. While they were proud of China's achievements, they had positive impressions about India. India, they believed, was culturally and economically similar to China, and was thus a key partner for China in its bid to offset Western domination. They believed they had much to learn from India in terms of IT and English-skills, but when it came to food ... Indians sure were missing out on some tasty eel meat and chicken feet.

Eating out

AFP

Growing economic prosperity -- a bird's eye view of Shanghai.

The few vegetarian restaurants in the city were undoubtedly the saving grace for my vegetarian taste buds. (I soon found that to expect vegetarian food in a local eatery without a basic command of Chinese bordered on the preposterous.) Shared meals at typical family-style restaurants provided interesting cuisine etiquette lessons. Dishes are served on a revolving plate in the centre of the table, and food is deftly picked up with chopsticks as it comes by. Admittedly, chopstick-consternation led me to the ingenious idea of putting servings directly on my plate, and a gentle nudge from a colleague brought home the lesson that it is considered "barbarous" to actually place a helping on your plate. Fortunately, I didn't have to resort to a grass-diet; my Chinese friends made sure that lip-smacking tofu and vegetable dishes were aplenty.

Aware of the difficulties of getting settled in Shanghai without any knowledge of Mandarin, my colleagues often went out of their way to make sure I had no problems. This warmth and hospitality was echoed throughout my further travels in China, and was accentuated after I began speaking basic Mandarin. I remember getting into a cab one afternoon, only to find the driver turning to look at me curiously. He said excitedly in Mandarin, "Indian films! Song, dance, very good!" after which he burst into Amitabh-esque dance gyrations. On a train to Erlian in Northern China, fellow passengers crowded around me to stare and listen to my broken Mandarin. They immediately broke out into smiles, shook my hands and graciously complimented me on my command of the language! Local people whom I came in contact with were extremely pleased at even meagre attempts to speak Mandarin, and asked many questions about my heritage.

Though Shanghai provides an interesting window into modern China, my travels outside highlighted diverse facets of Chinese culture. In the beautiful water-towns of Tong-Li and Hangzhou, I gained an insight into slower, more traditional patterns of life. A climb up the jagged, perilously steep pilgrimage mountains of Huangshan and Taishan to see the awesome ancient Buddhist at their peaks, gave me a glimpse of China's deeply religious past.

With its abundant natural beauty, world-class cities and hospitable people, China undoubtedly fulfils most travellers' aspirations. Probe a little deeper, however, and you'll probably find more than you bargained for.